The uncrowded Caribbean island mass tourism forgot
The tiny Caribbean island of St Croix first entered my consciousness when I read that the Bidens had just spent three successive Christmases there.
If it was good enough for Joe and Jill, I reasoned, it was certainly worth a visit (the 16.5 per cent rise in tourist numbers last year suggests I was not alone) – and so, this summer, off I went.
The appeal was immediately clear.
This far-from-flashy spot in the US Virgin Islands – devoid of mass tourism and hotel chains (and largely untouched by cruise ships) – is barely half the size of the Isle of Wight, and yet it brims with history and character, punching far above its diminutive weight.
Christopher Columbus landed there in 1493, for a start – met by the arrows of indigenous tribes, who knew the island as Ay Ay – rechristening it Santa Cruz, and naming the Virgin Islands after the 11,000 virgin handmaidens of St Ursula.
Since then, St Croix has been colonised by the Dutch, British, French, Danish, Spanish and even the Knights of Malta – operating, like many of its Caribbean neighbours, as a hub for sugar cultivation and the slave trade – before being purchased by the US (along with the rest of the US Virgin Islands) in 1917.
Today, this kaleidoscopic colonial influence is borne out in a rich and complex culture, as well as in the names of its twin towns, named after Danish kings: Frederiksted (also known as Freedom City following the island’s famed Fireburn labour riot in 1848) to the west, and Christiansted to the east – a charming spot with a thriving food scene.
Distinctive Danish architecture dominates downtown Christiansted to this day (it was once home to a young Alexander Hamilton, who worked as a bookkeeper for an import company; the delightful Hamilton’s restaurant is named after him).
There is an abundance of Danish architectural heritage to admire in the Christiansted Historical Area in St Croix
Credit: Alamy
Of course, the main draws here are the white sand and clear waters – but, tempting though it may be to spend your time supine on the island’s beautiful beaches (the Painkiller – the rum-heavy nutmeg cocktail of choice in these parts – in hand), there are plenty of reasons to explore St Croix in its entirety.
From visiting beer-drinking pigs in the rainforest, to “chaney” hunting, and snorkelling in an underwater marine garden now protected thanks to John F Kennedy, here’s how to plan a holiday in St Croix.
How to get there
There are no direct flights to St Croix from the UK, but various airlines fly from Miami, Atlanta, Fort Lauderdale and Charlotte in the US (and, from December, from Chicago too). A connecting return flight from the UK will set you back roughly £800.
Sprat Hall Beach on the eastern part of the islandSprat Hall beach (also known as Cowboy Beach) is a beautiful mile-long stretch of white sand near Frederiksted
Credit: Alamy Stock Photo
What to do
St Croix is a natural wonderland, with rugged green mountains jutting from the north shore, giving way to rolling hills and plantation flatlands to the south.
Explore the landscape by kayaking through bioluminescent plankton and neon comb jellyfish at Salt River Bay (with BushTribe Eco Adventures), horse-ride on Cowboy Beach (with Cruzan Cowgirls Horse Rescue).
Book boat tour of Buck Island Reef National Monument (with Caribbean Sea Adventures), a coral marine garden established by John F Kennedy, who visited St Croix often (and – allegedly – brought Marilyn Monroe here for a clandestine rendezvous).
The translucent turquoise waters of Buck Island, home to ‘the finest marine garden in the Caribbean Sea’ according to President John F. Kennedy
Credit: Jon Mayger
If outdoor pursuits aren’t for you, head instead to Christiansted to experience Art Thursdays (held on the third Thursday of each month between November and May), when a stroll through the quaint shopping streets is accompanied by steel drums and a party atmosphere.
Pick up authentic “chaney” jewellery souvenirs from Crucian Gold and ib designs, crafted by local artisan Whealan Massicott using colonial pottery shards washed up on the beach (”chaney” is a portmanteau of “china” and “money”).
It’s worth paying a visit to the Cruzan Rum Distillery for tasting tours, and to Mutiny Island Vodka for copper-pot distilled breadfruit- and rainwater-vodka (and pineapple cake with smoked hot pepper vodka).
Madeleine Howell by a breadfruit treeMadeleine Howell by a breadfruit tree at the Mutiny Island Vodka distillery in St Croix
Credit: Jon Mayger
If you’d rather someone else did the drinking, head into the rainforest to visit Mt Pellier Domino Club (aka the “Jungle bar”), home to the famous beer-drinking pigs (don’t worry, it’s non-alcoholic).
Where to stay
The island’s most famous hotel, The Buccaneer (from £229), has an 18-hole golf course, eight tennis courts, three beaches and two pools.
For something more low key, try Sand Castle on the Beach in Frederiksted (from £192), a serene, palm-lined adults only resort, or the cool, casual Landing Beach Bar on Cane Bay Beach, which has 11 cottages and a scuba diving centre.
The grounds of The Buccaneer beach and golf resort in St Croix
Credit: Maddi Howell
If you’d prefer to opt for self-catering, properties are available through Premier Properties USVI and its luxury portfolio, Aura Villas USVI.
Caribbean Camelot (sleeps six) costs from $500/£370 per night. Cruzan Dreams (sleeps six), is next to Salt River Marina, has beach access and costs from $600/£445; and Yacht Haven (sleeps six), which is close to Teague Bay and the St Croix Yacht Club, and costs from $425/£315.
Private chefs and bespoke experiences, such as a picnic beside the Millennium Monument sundial at Point Udall (the easternmost point of the United States) can be arranged.
Cruzan sunset views at Caribbean Camelot Cruzan sunset views at Caribbean Camelot
Credit: Jon Mayger
What to eat
This year, St Croix was crowned the Caribbean Culinary Destination of the Year – and for good reason.
Christiansted hums with great options, but there are several standouts: Shupe’s on the Boardwalk serves made-to-order burgers; Caroline’s is a delightful brunch spot with harbourside views; and Virgin Islands Coffee Roasters for small-batch roasted coffee.
Savant and Too Chez are both good upmarket options, while chocolatier Erika Dupree Cline makes Crucian bean-to-bar chocolate at Bleu Chocolàt Workshop, and Johnny cakes (fried dough), a moreish local staple, are available from La Reine Chicken Shack.
A lobster thermidor baked potato and asparagus dish at Savant restaurant
Credit: Maddi Howell
To get a feel for the Crucian culinary landscape as a whole, hop between local restaurants in Christiansted with Virgin Islands Food Tours, tasting the likes of Caribbean lemongrass bush tea, guava tarts and Mutiny Island vodka cocktails.
When to go
Peak tourist season runs from mid-November to May. If you’d like to plan a trip to coincide with local festivities, aim for between Dec 26 and Jan 6, when the Crucian Christmas Festival comes to Frederiksted, or mid-March, for the Caribbean’s largest St Patrick’s Day celebration, which takes place in Christiansted. Avoid June to November, which is hurricane season.
Cruzan Rum distilleryHead to the Cruzan Rum distillery, founded in 1760, for tastings
Credit: Jon Mayger
How to get around
There is very little in the way of public transport, so it’s sensible to hire a car. Centerline, Hertz or Budget are all reliable options.
Madeleine Howell was a guest of Aura Villas USVI.
